ICON 69 - Mooleh Manay, Four Strain Yeast

Mooleh Manay Estate is located near the beautiful backwaters of the Harangi Reservoir in Coorg, Karnataka. The farm is now managed by Komal and Akshay, who took over from 4th generation coffee planter, Ms. G.G. Padmashree.

They take a data-driven approach to farming and coffee processing, believing that data is essential for optimising agricultural practices and ensuring the highest quality coffee production. The farm cultivates a variety of coffee species, including Arabica, Robusta, and Excelsa, and uses meticulous processing methods.

Komal also runs the exporting company, South India Coffee Company, and together they have founded a research and development wing, SICC Labs, focusing on low-intervention Coffea species for the future.

Each year, Akshay and the team at Mooleh Manay get to unleash their imaginations through the creation of several experimental nano-lots. Produced exclusively for coffee competitions, this lot was fermented using a mixed culture of four carefully selected yeast strains inoculated together at the start of fermentation. The blend combines three Saccharomyces cerevisiae strains with Torulaspora delbrueckii, a non-Saccharomyces yeast known for enhancing aromatic complexity.

The process begins with a pre-drying stage under the sun for 48 hours. This reduces the moisture content and also allows some fermentation to begin. The whole cherries are then placed in a tank for a carbonic maceration for 60h with a blend of four yeasts and Lactobacillus casei.

Chandragiri is a cross between Villa Sarchi (a natural mutation of Bourbon) and Hybrid de Timor (a spontaneous cross between Arabica and Canephora, also known as Robusta, on the island of Timor in the 1920s). This semi-dwarf Sarchimor variety was introduced to India in 2007 by the Central Coffee Research Institute (CCRI) and is often referred to as “Selection 13”. It's characterised by drooping branches with loose clusters of cherries, which promote uniform development. The plant produces relatively long seeds for Arabica and shows excellent tolerance to both leaf rust and white stem berry borer. Additionally, it offers a good quality cup profile.

Often referred to as anaerobic fermentation, "anoxic" is the correct term for the environment where fermentation occurs. While fermentation itself is inherently anaerobic (not requiring oxygen), many other microbial processes happening simultaneously do need oxygen. One such process is the production of acetic acid, which can be pleasant in small amounts but leads to very sour, vinegar-like notes and "farmyard" aromas when concentrated. By fermenting coffee without oxygen, you can slow acetic acid production while encouraging more intense fruit flavours. This process can be carried out in various vessels, sometimes with added CO2 (carbonic maceration), and at different stages, either with whole fruit or after the coffee has been pulped.

The dry/natural process is the oldest and simplest method of preparing green coffee. Well-suited to environments with limited water access and hot climates, this process typically uses no water and requires no specialised equipment.

After harvesting, coffee cherries are dried until they reach about 20% moisture content. They're then usually rested for a few weeks in bags before being sent to a mill for hulling and export preparation.

The cherries can be dried on large patios or raised African beds, large trays with a mesh base that allow increased airflow for even drying. Best practices include keeping the drying coffee in shade during the hottest parts of the day and avoiding re-wetting by rain or condensation. Regular turning and good ventilation are also crucial to prevent mould formation.

To avoid defective seeds and sour fermentation off-flavours, it's best to sort the harvested cherries during the initial drying stage when under-ripe, over-ripe, and damaged cherries are easily spotted. After just a couple of days, the cherries turn a dark red-brown colour before becoming black, making it impossible to visually identify problem cherries.

Coffee begins fermenting from the moment it's picked and continues while there's enough moisture and high temperatures, conditions that favour microbial growth. This uncontrolled fermentation leads to the development of wild, fruity flavours and an increased perception of sweetness and body.