TUTTI FRUTTI

Infusion is an often misunderstood term which has become highly controversial in coffee circles recently. Often used interchangeably with the term “co-ferment”, it’s important to understand the difference between the two. With a co-ferment, products like fruits are added to the fermenting coffee, bringing with them their own sugars, yeasts and microbes to feed the fermentation. This won’t make the coffee taste like the fruit which is added, just increase the potential for fermentation flavours. Infusion however, directly transfers flavour to coffee using natural or synthetic flavourings. The lack of transparency around production methods, and the adoption of opaque and misleading terms for marketing purposes creates confusion about what constitutes "naturally" produced flavour profiles, with some criticising any additions, including yeasts.

This project aims to demonstrate where we believe infusion can positively impact the industry, by adding value to lower grade coffee. As the process doesn't require cherry to be floated or sorted, growers benefit by selling their entire harvest rather than just premium selections.

The process starts with ripe cherries from the Huila region, selected by Forest Coffee's team. This innovative lot combines tropical and berry profiles through a two-part process: one batch undergoes 48-hour fermentation with dehydrated mango to infuse tropical sweetness, while another batch ferments with diluted raspberry oil for the same duration to add bright, fruity notes.

After fermentation, the coffees are combined and dried under controlled conditions, allowing their flavours to integrate harmoniously. This multi-day drying process ensures even moisture reduction, while preserving the delicate aromatics developed during fermentation. The result is a complex cup featuring notes of ripe mango, raspberry jam, red fruit acidity, floral undertones, and a lingering tropical sweetness.

The story begins 1995, when the parents of the Bayter Family decided to embark on an agricultural adventure at the El Vergel farm. With passion and dedication, they began growing avocados, making their farm one of the most productive in the country. However, in 2006, avocado prices dropped sharply due to a disease that severely affected the crop.

Between 2009 and 2010, Martha, the Bayter's mother, decided to diversify her crops and reduce costs by introducing coffee varieties such as Catimor, and Red and Yellow Caturra, challenging the limits of her knowledge.

As their interest in coffee grew, the Bayters embarked on a journey of empirical learning about pulping and different types of fermentation. With Nelson Moya, a coffee enthusiast who introduced them to various processing equipment, they immersed themselves in the search for Colombian specialty coffees. Their efforts led to their farm being certified as "Rainforest" by the prestigious "Federación Nacional de Cafeteros" between 2014 and 2015. Their dedication and love for coffee began to bear fruit. In 2016, they met Miguel Jimenez, an expert in varieties and specialty coffees, who guided the Bayters in planting cultivars such as Geisha, Java, Pacamara, Red Bourbon, and Laurina. The first production of these coffees in 2017 marked a milestone in their journey.

As time progressed, the farm was modernized. In 2018, they implemented modern fermentation practices and acquired silos for coffee storage. Little by little, they became pioneers of innovation and quality. Currently, the Bayter family conducts exhaustive research on bacteria and yeasts to control fermentation while tirelessly experimenting with various processes, reaching unprecedented levels of excellence in their coffees. Today, El Vergel has expanded to include more than 28 varieties planted throughout its land and is distinguished as the first coffee farm in Colombia to develop the Koji fermentation process—a method that has completely transformed green coffee production.

Caturra is a pure-line dwarf mutant of red Bourbon, discovered in Minas Gerais, Brazil in 1937. Its leaf and fruit characteristics resemble Bourbon, with cherries that can be either red or yellow—known as Caturra Vermelho and Caturra Amarelo, respectively. The plant is short with abundant lateral and secondary branches, giving it a vigorous and compact appearance. Due to its susceptibility to coffee diseases and lack of hardiness in frost-risk areas, Caturra was never cultivated in Brazilian lowland plantations. However, its broad adaptability has led to its widespread cultivation across Colombia and Central America, where it thrives at higher altitudes.

In 1967, Portuguese breeders began developing new coffee varieties resistant to leaf rust while maintaining a compact stature for denser planting. They crossed rust-resistant Timor Hybrid lines with compact Caturra. The Timor Hybrid—a natural cross between C. arabica and C. canephora (Robusta) that appeared spontaneously on the island of Timor in the 1920s—provided natural resistance to leaf rust through its Robusta genetics, making it an extremely important hybrid.

One notable hybridization between Caturra and the Timor Hybrid was Colombia, developed over five generations by Cenicafé from 1968 to 1982. This variety was created in anticipation of Colombia's first coffee leaf rust outbreak, which occurred in 1983. In 2005, Cenicafé released Castillo—named after researcher Jaime Castillo and trademarked by the organization—as an improvement on the Colombia variety. Castillo has since become the most widely planted variety in Colombia.

The dry/natural process is the oldest and simplest method of preparing green coffee. Well-suited to environments with limited water access and hot climates, this process typically uses no water and requires no specialized equipment.

After harvesting, coffee cherries are dried until they reach about 20% moisture content. They're then usually rested for a few weeks in bags before being sent to a mill for hulling and export preparation.

The cherries can be dried on large patios or raised African beds—large trays with a mesh base that allow increased airflow for even drying. Best practices include keeping the drying coffee in shade during the hottest parts of the day and avoiding re-wetting by rain or condensation. Regular turning and good ventilation are also crucial to prevent mould formation.

To avoid defective seeds and sour fermentation off-flavours, it's best to sort the harvested cherries during the initial drying stage when under-ripe, over-ripe, and damaged cherries are easily spotted. After just a couple of days, the cherries turn a dark red-brown colour before becoming black, making it impossible to visually identify problem cherries.

Coffee begins fermenting from the moment it's picked and continues while there's enough moisture and high temperatures—conditions that favour microbial growth. This uncontrolled fermentation leads to the development of wild, fruity flavours and an increased perception of sweetness and body.