GAGARI GUTITI, Supernatural

‘Supernatural’ is a processing method which augments the traditional natural sun-drying process by extending the fermentation time using controlled environments.

In traditional Ethiopian specialty natural processing, cherries are spread in a thin layer over a raised bed and dried under sunlight. For supernatural, cherries are spread in a thick layer on racks in a semi-permeable box, restricting access to sunlight while allowing limited airflow and oxygenation. This extends the overall drying time and increases the natural fermentation of the latent sugars in the cherries over the course of the drying period.

In order to ensure consistency, prevent over-fermentation, and avoid mould formation, it is essential that the conditions are strictly monitored throughout. Temperature, Brix and moisture readings are recorded periodically and small adjustments to airflow and ambient temperature are made accordingly.

Once the optimum moisture content has been reached (around 12.5%) the cherries are rested in a cool environment before being prepared for export.

Gagari Gutiti washing station is a cherry processing facility which specialises in experimental processes. The station is located in the kebele (village) of Banko in Gedeb district, Gedeo zone, in the ‘Southern Nations, Nationalities & Peoples’ (SNNP) region of Ethiopia. The station is not far from Gedeb town and is broadly considered as part of the Yirgacheffe coffee growing region. Over a number of years the region has developed a distinguished reputation for fine coffees, producing some of the most sought after micro-lots in world. The combination of high altitude (up to 2,200m in some areas), fertile soil, consistent and plentiful rains, and an abundance of local knowledge are all contributing factors to the high status of Yirgacheffe coffees.

Gagari Gutiti sits at 1,983 masl and is notable for its highly strict and uncompromising standards. The small farmers in this region typically cultivate Jarc 74110, 7412 and 74165, sub-varieties of traditional Ethiopian heirloom varieties on small garden plots around their homes.

In botanical terms, heirloom varieties are plants passed down through generations, often within families, known for their historical significance and cultural heritage. In Ethiopia, "heirloom" is often used as a catch-all term for any variety native to the country. Estimates suggest there are between 10,000 and 15,000 heirloom varieties in Ethiopia today, most of which have not been formally genetically identified.

While many heirloom varieties originate as wild plants, some have been selected for their desirable qualities and cultivated on coffee farms across the country.

Heirloom varieties typically fall into two categories: JARC varieties and regional landraces. JARC varieties are developed and researched by the Jimma Agricultural Research Centre for desirable characteristics, such as greater disease resistance or increased yield. In contrast, regional landraces are varieties that have evolved naturally over generations, adapting to their specific environments.

The dry/natural process is the oldest and simplest method of preparing green coffee. Well-suited to environments with limited water access and hot climates, this process typically uses no water and requires no specialized equipment.

After harvesting, coffee cherries are dried until they reach about 20% moisture content. They're then usually rested for a few weeks in bags before being sent to a mill for hulling and export preparation.

The cherries can be dried on large patios or raised African beds—large trays with a mesh base that allow increased airflow for even drying. Best practices include keeping the drying coffee in shade during the hottest parts of the day and avoiding re-wetting by rain or condensation. Regular turning and good ventilation are also crucial to prevent mould formation.

To avoid defective seeds and sour fermentation off-flavours, it's best to sort the harvested cherries during the initial drying stage when under-ripe, over-ripe, and damaged cherries are easily spotted. After just a couple of days, the cherries turn a dark red-brown colour before becoming black, making it impossible to visually identify problem cherries.

Coffee begins fermenting from the moment it's picked and continues while there's enough moisture and high temperatures—conditions that favour microbial growth. This uncontrolled fermentation leads to the development of wild, fruity flavours and an increased perception of sweetness and body.