ICON 64 - Jarma Matlaa, Ja'adi Natural

Originating in Ethiopia, coffee traveled across the Red Sea to Yemen, where it became known as “qahwa”, a term that once meant wine in Arabic but now signifies coffee. By the 15th century, coffee cultivation and trade were well established in the country, and by the 17th century, the port city of Al Mokha had become the hub of global coffee trade. However, competition emerged from Java in the 18th century, challenging Yemen's monopoly.

The two varieties of Arabica that were initially introduced have provided the genetic stock for much of the cultivation around the world, traveling via trading routes and colonists, adapting to different environments, and naturally mutating over time. In recent years, however, a study uncovered a new Yemen cluster that is not related, from a genetic point of view, to any population in Ethiopia observed thus far. The study concluded that either the genetic source was lost in Ethiopia, or it is related to populations not yet included in genetic diversity analysis, meaning Yemen has a population of varieties that are genetically distinct.

Coffee grows in the central mountain regions, where the landrace varieties have naturally mutated and adapted to their environment over the centuries, developing incredibly unique flavour profiles. Coffee is still grown much as it was over five hundred years ago, on terraces clinging to the sides of semi-arid mountains below ancient stone villages that rise like geometric extensions of the mountains themselves. During the dry winter, water collected in small reservoirs is often directed to the roots of the coffee trees to help them survive until the light rains of summer return.

Coffee here is grown by communities of smallholder farmers who typically blend their harvests to produce enough volume to export. Coffee is harvested in the dry autumn season when the fruit ripens, then dried traditionally on rooftops, though more often now on patios or raised African beds. This natural processing really emphasises the unique cup profile of these interesting varieties, and Yemeni coffee can be wild and pungent, with intense dried fruits like raisins and dates, alongside spice and tobacco notes.

The demand for Yemeni coffee, combined with limited production, high production costs, and the difficulty of exporting goods from a country still affected by armed conflict, means these coffees are highly sought after and command very high prices. It is also often difficult to provide full traceability.

Jarma is a high-altitude village in the East Haraz region of Yemen’s Haraz Mountains. It is renowned for producing some of the world’s most premium and complex speciality coffees. At extreme elevations of 2,183 to 2,350 metres above sea level, the village is home to skilled smallholder farmers who cultivate rare heirloom varieties such as Ja'adi, Udaini, and Old Typica. The word “Matlaa” refers to elevation and reflects the highest quality coffee grown at Jarma’s greatest altitudes.

Ja'adi is a coffee variety native to Yemen, known for its natural resistance to diseases and pests, high yields and unique flavour profile. Often cultivated in the Haraz mountains where farmers hand-pick and sun-dry the seeds, sometimes even aging them in caves. This traditional processing method contributes to the coffee's distinct fruit-forward flavour.

he dry/natural process is the oldest and simplest method of preparing green coffee. Well-suited to environments with limited water access and hot climates, this process typically uses no water and requires no specialized equipment.

After harvesting, coffee cherries are dried until they reach about 20% moisture content. They're then usually rested for a few weeks in bags before being sent to a mill for hulling and export preparation.

The cherries can be dried on large patios or raised African beds—large trays with a mesh base that allow increased airflow for even drying. Best practices include keeping the drying coffee in shade during the hottest parts of the day and avoiding re-wetting by rain or condensation. Regular turning and good ventilation are also crucial to prevent mould formation.

To avoid defective seeds and sour fermentation off-flavours, it's best to sort the harvested cherries during the initial drying stage when under-ripe, over-ripe, and damaged cherries are easily spotted. After just a couple of days, the cherries turn a dark red-brown colour before becoming black, making it impossible to visually identify problem cherries.

Coffee begins fermenting from the moment it's picked and continues while there's enough moisture and high temperatures—conditions that favour microbial growth. This uncontrolled fermentation leads to the development of wild, fruity flavours and an increased perception of sweetness and body.