ICON 58 - Daterra, Ceuci Anoxic Natural

The 2024 crop in Brazil brought unprecedented challenges to coffee production due to climate change. Despite this uncertainty, Daterra's investment in research has allowed them to overcome these obstacles and produce exceptional-quality coffee.

Their 2024 auction showcased 15 coffees highlighting a commitment to developing varieties resilient to climate change, pests, and diseases while maintaining exceptional taste profiles. Each lot was named after a researcher, recognized for their significant contributions to Brazilian and global coffee, and as a tribute, all of the proceeds from this auction were reinvested in research, awarding scholarships to three young researchers to ensure the future of coffee science.

The lot we purchased is named after Ângelo and Marcelo de Carmargo, two of the most renowned climatology scientists, specializing in coffee production in Brazil. They are actually father and son, which individually and together, have written some of the most relevant articles in this field.

Ângelo Paes de Camargo’s journey began in 1938, just a year after he completed
his studies in agronomy. Driven by a deep passion for agriculture, Angelo devoted his life to studying climatic conditions affecting crops, with a particular focus on coffee. His work began at the Agronomic Institute of Campinas (IAC) and later took him to the United States, where he earned his doctorate from Rutgers University and the University of California. The knowledge he gained was crucial, providing insights into water balance and frost phenomena that transformed coffee cultivation in Brazil. After retiring from IAC in 1966, Angelo continued to influence coffee research at the Brazilian Coffee Institute (IBC), where he collaborated with his son Marcelo on numerous scientific papers. This period was marked by both significant scholarly output and the deep mutual respect that defined their relationship. Angelo's commitment to passing on his knowledge to Marcelo was profound; he expressed his determination to ensure that his expertise would not be lost and emphasized that he could not leave this world without transferring his wisdom to his son.

Marcelo Bento Paes de Camargo, following in his father Angelo's scientific footsteps, emerged as a key figure in agricultural climatology. From his early days at IAC, Marcelo showed deep respect for his father's work and a drive to advance agrometeorological research. His time working with Angelo was pivotal, forming a team that made significant contributions to understanding climatic effects on coffee cultivation. Marcelo's own journey, highlighted by a doctorate in agrometeorology obtained in 1988, saw him make notable strides in the field, focusing on coffee and other crops. Upon returning to his professional career, Marcelo dedicated himself to integrating new agronomists and deepening existing knowledge. His commitment extended beyond science, ensuring that the next generation of experts was prepared to continue this vital work.

Ângelo's legacy extends beyond his individual achievements; his dedication to sharing his knowledge exemplifies his belief in the power of mentorship. His work was particularly vital given the scarcity of climatological research in Brazil, a field that remains underdeveloped. Marcelo's accomplishments and ongoing work are a testament to Angelo's vision, making his father's impact on coffee climatology a lasting and critical part of Brazil's agricultural history.

Camargo & Camargo—as they are quoted in their co-authored articles—were visionaries who early on recognized the impacts that climate change would have on coffee production, as the world faces today. The collaborative work of father and son underscores the vital role of climatological research in overcoming climate change challenges in coffee cultivation, helping producers adapt and improve their agricultural practices, ensuring the sustainability of coffee production in Brazil.

Daterra, meaning "from the earth," was founded in 1976 and is located in the famous Cerrado, a vast tropical savanna ecoregion covering over 20% of Brazil. They are the world's first grade "A" rainforest certified farm, with over 60% of their land dedicated to nature reserves. A walk among the trees reveals a stunning array of wildlife, from toucans and burrowing owls to squirrel monkeys and maned wolves.

The land used for coffee cultivation is divided into several blocks, each with a designated agronomist who cares for the planted varieties and understands the unique environment of their plot. Varieties are carefully chosen to suit the varying aspects of the land, with over 100 varieties currently growing across the farm.

Daterra's annual Masterpiece collection is always eagerly anticipated. Each year they create a set of 88+ scoring coffees from exotic varieties using cutting-edge processing techniques. The Masterpiece farm is very small and functions as a laboratory, testing innovative coffee production methods. This section features new and unusual varieties, diverse processing methods, experimental drying techniques, and countless other trials. Every Masterpiece lot is grown and processed in small quantities, offering a unique cup profile and high scores. Due to their experimental nature, these lots can never be replicated, making them truly one-of-a-kind. A small micro-mill sits on the far side of the drying patio, containing sorting and pulping facilities alongside tanks for anoxic and aerobic fermentation, raised beds with moveable shade netting, and a dedicated warehouse for storage. This self-sufficient operation effectively creates a farm within a farm.

Daterra are also renowned for their Penta Process®. A five-stage methodology for producing the best possible coffees, progressing from planting through harvesting, separation, drying, and finally sorting. The best lots are then packaged using Penta Pack®, an internationally patented system consisting of two 12.1kg inert gas-flushed and vacuum-packed foil bags inside a sturdy box.

Ceuci is not a specific coffee variety but a lineage selected by Daterra from the Arara cultivar. Through a nine-year process, Daterra made successive selections of plants with lower genetic segregation, greater vigor, and superior flavor characteristics. After four generations of refinement, they developed a lineage well-adapted to the regional climate, offering both strong production and excellent cup quality.

"Ceuci" serves as the nickname for this lineage, which is producing coffee commercially for the first time in 2024. The name comes from the Tupi-Guarani goddess of plantations and harvests. Despite climate change challenges, Ceuci trees have yielded some of Daterra's finest coffees, with four lots featured in the 2024 auction. When processed using anoxic fermentation, the Ceuci lineage captures the essence of Brazilian coffee while exhibiting enhanced tropical fruit flavours.

Often called anaerobic fermentation, "anoxic" is the correct term for the environment where fermentation occurs. While fermentation itself is inherently anaerobic (not requiring oxygen), many other microbial processes happening simultaneously do need oxygen. One such process is the production of acetic acid, which can be pleasant in small amounts but leads to very sour, vinegar-like notes and "farmyard" aromas when concentrated. By fermenting coffee without oxygen, you can slow acetic acid production while encouraging more intense fruit flavours. This process can be carried out in various vessels, sometimes with added CO2 (carbonic maceration), and at different stages—either with whole fruit or after the coffee has been pulped.

The dry/natural process is the oldest and simplest method of preparing green coffee. Well-suited to environments with limited water access and hot climates, this process typically uses no water and requires no specialized equipment.

After harvesting, coffee cherries are dried until they reach about 20% moisture content. They're then usually rested for a few weeks in bags before being sent to a mill for hulling and export preparation. The cherries can be dried on large patios or raised African beds—large trays with a mesh base that allow increased airflow for even drying. Best practices include keeping the drying coffee in shade during the hottest parts of the day and avoiding re-wetting by rain or condensation. Regular turning and good ventilation are also crucial to prevent mould formation.

To avoid defective seeds and sour fermentation off-flavours, it's best to sort the harvested cherries during the initial drying stage when under-ripe, over-ripe, and damaged cherries are easily spotted. After just a couple of days, the cherries turn a dark red-brown colour before becoming black, making it impossible to visually identify problem cherries.

Coffee begins fermenting from the moment it's picked and continues while there's enough moisture and high temperatures—conditions that favour microbial growth. This uncontrolled fermentation leads to the development of wild, fruity flavours and an increased perception of sweetness and body.