ICON 57 - Su'ut, Ja'adi Natural

Yemen is the birthplace of commercial coffee production, and from the historic port of Mocha, coffee was first introduced to the world. Coffee grows in Yemen's central mountain regions, where landrace varieties have naturally mutated and adapted to their environment over centuries, developing incredibly unique flavour profiles. The cultivation methods remain largely unchanged for over five hundred years, with coffee grown on terraces that cling to semi-arid mountainsides beneath ancient stone villages that appear as geometric extensions of the mountains themselves. During the dry winter, farmers direct water from small reservoirs to the coffee trees' roots, helping them survive until the light summer rains return.

Communities of smallholder farmers grow coffee here, typically blending their harvests to produce enough volume for export. Harvesting occurs in the dry autumn when the fruit ripens. The coffee is traditionally dried on rooftops, though now more commonly on patios or raised African beds. Farmers rake and turn the cherries throughout the day and cover them at night or during rainstorms to prevent mould. This natural processing emphasizes the unique cup profile of these varieties, resulting in wild, pungent coffees with intense dried fruit notes like raisins and dates, along with spice and tobacco characteristics.

The high demand for Yemeni coffee, combined with limited production, high production costs, and export difficulties from a war zone, makes these coffees highly sought after and expensive. Consequently, providing detailed traceability often proves challenging.

Su’ut is a a village in Haraz, which is located west of the capital city of Sana'a in the northwest highlands of Yemen. It is **known for its stunning landscapes, fortified villages, and unique cultural heritage**. The region is renowned for its high-altitude coffee cultivation, often referred to as "the land above the clouds." The area features dramatic scenery with steep cliffs, lush valleys, and terraced fields, where coffee grows at elevations of up to 2,400 metres in rich volcanic soil.

Coffee in this region is produced by hundreds of farming families, each tending to an average of one hectare of land.

Ja'adi is a coffee variety native to Yemen, known for its natural resistance to diseases and pests, high yields and unique flavour profile. Often cultivated in the Haraz mountains where farmers hand-pick and sun-dry the seeds, sometimes even aging them in caves. This traditional processing method contributes to the coffee's distinct fruit-forward flavour.

The dry/natural process is the oldest and simplest method of preparing green coffee. Well-suited to environments with limited water access and hot climates, this process typically uses no water and requires no specialized equipment.

After harvesting, coffee cherries are dried until they reach about 20% moisture content. They're then usually rested for a few weeks in bags before being sent to a mill for hulling and export preparation.

The cherries can be dried on large patios or raised African beds—large trays with a mesh base that allow increased airflow for even drying. Best practices include keeping the drying coffee in shade during the hottest parts of the day and avoiding re-wetting by rain or condensation. Regular turning and good ventilation are also crucial to prevent mould formation.

To avoid defective seeds and sour fermentation off-flavours, it's best to sort the harvested cherries during the initial drying stage when under-ripe, over-ripe, and damaged cherries are easily spotted. After just a couple of days, the cherries turn a dark red-brown colour before becoming black, making it impossible to visually identify problem cherries.

Coffee begins fermenting from the moment it's picked and continues while there's enough moisture and high temperatures—conditions that favour microbial growth. This uncontrolled fermentation leads to the development of wild, fruity flavours and an increased perception of sweetness and body.