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EL VERGEL “CONDOR” Decaf

£13.50

This is something of a rarity! A single variety and single farm decaf. We buy coffees decaffeinated at origin, leaving more of the value in the producing country and minimising carbon footprint. This outstanding coffee from El Vergel is delicious and we taste berries and peaches with a rich caramel sweetness.

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Size

Lot Info

It's very rare to find a single variety, single farm decaf, as the minimum quantity requirements for the process can be prohibitive. Commonly exporters and importers will bulk old crop coffees to add some value to them.

After seeing that most of the coffee used in Colombia to produce decaf was low quality, El Vergel saw an opportunity to produce something which would really shine. Using only coffees from their own farm means that quality comes first and has allowed them to create a decaffeinated product that despite the process, maintains its character and sweetness in the cup.

The coffee is processed at the Descafecol plant in Manizales. The decaffeination process at this plant uses ethyl acetate derived 100% from sugar cane mixed with mountain water, together removing 99.7% of the caffeine present. When the coffee is received, it is first conditioned using water and steam. This elevates the moisture content and swells the seeds to facilitate the extraction of caffeine. At this point, the coffee is washed in ethyl acetate which dissolves the caffeine. The beans are then cleaned with water, followed by steam, and finally, are dried until they reach a stable moisture content. This method avoids excessive heat or pressure, which can radically disrupt a green bean's cellular structure.

Unlike the majority of decafs, this lot was specifically selected and decaffeinated at origin, stimulating the local economy and lowering the carbon footprint.


Producer

The story begins 1995, when the parents of the Bayter Family decided to embark on an agricultural adventure at the El Vergel farm. With passion and dedication, they began growing avocados, making their farm one of the most productive in the country. However, in 2006, avocado prices dropped sharply due to a disease that severely affected the crop.

Between 2009 and 2010, Martha, the Bayter's mother, decided to diversify her crops and reduce costs by introducing coffee varieties such as Catimor, and Red and Yellow Caturra, challenging the limits of her knowledge.

As their interest in coffee grew, the Bayters embarked on a journey of empirical learning about pulping and different types of fermentation. With Nelson Moya, a coffee enthusiast who introduced them to various processing equipment, they immersed themselves in the search for Colombian specialty coffees. Their efforts led to their farm being certified as "Rainforest" by the prestigious "Federación Nacional de Cafeteros" between 2014 and 2015. Their dedication and love for coffee began to bear fruit. In 2016, they met Miguel Jimenez, an expert in varieties and specialty coffees, who guided the Bayters in planting cultivars such as Geisha, Java, Pacamara, Red Bourbon, and Laurina. The first production of these coffees in 2017 marked a milestone in their journey.

As time progressed, the farm was modernized. In 2018, they implemented modern fermentation practices and acquired silos for coffee storage. Little by little, they became pioneers of innovation and quality. Currently, the Bayter family conducts exhaustive research on bacteria and yeasts to control fermentation while tirelessly experimenting with various processes, reaching unprecedented levels of excellence in their coffees. Today, El Vergel has expanded to include more than 28 varieties planted throughout its land and is distinguished as the first coffee farm in Colombia to develop the Koji fermentation process—a method that has completely transformed green coffee production.

Cultivar

A pure-line dwarf mutant of red Bourbon, which was discovered in Minas Gerais, Brazil in 1937. Its leaf and fruit characteristics are similar to Bourbon, and Caturra cherries can be either red or yellow; otherwise known as Caturra Vermelho and Caturra Amarelo. It is short in height with abundant lateral branches and secondary branching, which gives to the plant a vigorous and compact aspect.

Caturra was never grown in lowland plantations in Brazil due its susceptibility to coffee diseases and to lack of hardiness for Brazilian frost-risk areas. The adaptability of this variety is broad, so it has spread across Colombia and Central America, where it was and still is grown at higher altitudes.

Process

The washed process was designed to minimize the risk of off-flavours caused by uncontrolled fermentation during the natural process. Cherries are typically sorted using a flotation tank, where under-ripe or defective fruits float to the top and can be removed. The remaining cherries are then pulped and left in a tank to ferment until the sticky fruit mucilage is soft enough to be washed off the parchment—a paper-like layer surrounding the seed.

The design and cleanliness of the tanks are crucial, and the degree and speed of fermentation depend on various factors. These include the amount of fruit remaining, the presence of bacteria and yeasts, whether the tank is filled with water, and the environmental conditions.

Once the mucilage has sufficiently degraded, it's washed away with water. The remaining parchment coffee, as it's commonly called, is then dried until it reaches a safe moisture content. The bacteria-rich and sugary water used in the process must be treated carefully, as it can cause algae blooms if it enters streams and rivers.

In situations where large amounts of coffee are processed in bulk, such as in Ethiopia, some operations have found it economical to use a mechanical demucilager. This device removes all the fruit from the parchment with minimal water, bypassing the fermentation stage entirely. However, some believe this leads to a reduction in cup quality, as many flavour precursors are created through fermentation.

Traceability

PRODUCER Shady and Elias Bayter
LOCATION El Vergel, Piedra Grande, Tolima, Colombia
ELEVATION 1,500 masl
CULTIVAR Caturra
PREPARATION Washed, Ethyl Acetate Decaffeinated
HARVEST October-December 2023
ARRIVED March 2024
IMPORTING PARTNER Forest Coffee