BUKONZO DREAM, Natural

This lot's name comes from the Bakonzo Tribe, a group whose people live throughout the Rwenzori mountains spanning Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. Tribe members often identify with their Bakonzo heritage rather than as citizens of either country. Omwani collaborated with Chris, the washing station manager who belongs to the tribe. Chris shared his dream of having coffee from the Bakonzo people roasted and enjoyed in the UK and this lot is the result.

This coffee was cultivated by 300-500 smallholders in the Rwenzori mountains and then naturally processed and exported by Agri Evolve.

Agri Evolve is a "profit-for-purpose" business founded by childhood friends Johnny Rowland and James Wilkinson. After Johnny completed his Tropical Agriculture studies at Reading University, the duo embarked on a journey to the Rwenzori mountains to create agricultural projects—a venture inspired by Johnny's parents' experiences living and working in rural Uganda.

While working at KARUDEC, a Rural Development centre in Kagando, Johnny and James supported individual farms in their traditional practices. This experience highlighted the importance of a broader perspective, prompting them to focus on supporting entire farming communities to maximize their positive impact in the Rwenzoris.

A persistent challenge faced by local farmers caught their attention: despite having coffee, these farmers lacked access to basic harvesting or processing facilities. Compounded by traders offering unfair prices for quick profits, this situation created an opportunity for a positive change in the region's coffee industry.

The chance to work alongside farmers aligned perfectly with their goals. They offered farmers an outlet to sell unprocessed coffee, took charge of quality control, and collaborated to enhance the reputation of Rwenzori coffee.

By guaranteeing fair market prices and maintaining a long-term presence, Agri Evolve attracted international buyers, effectively putting Rwenzori coffee back on the global map.

When Agri Evolve initially attempted to purchase cherries from farmers and cooperatives in the Rwenzoris, trust was the main hurdle. They focused on building relationships with key community decision-makers to instil confidence in their new initiative. Over time, this led to a gradual increase in the quantity of coffee they could access as cherries rather than processed green beans.

Agri Evolve organizes lots by geographic regions, coordinated through specialist buying centres, often further categorized into specific day-lots. Their primary focus is on controlling the natural processing of cherries while maintaining stringent quality control. They employ round-the-clock techniques, continuously refining each process to produce the finest Rwenzori coffee possible.

SL14 is a high-yielding, tall coffee variety with drought and cold tolerance, holding economic importance in both Kenya and Uganda. It was originally selected in 1936 at the Scott Agricultural Laboratories in Kenya from a single tree labelled "Drought Resistant II," with drought tolerance being its notable characteristic. Although historical records documenting the origin of D.R. II were lost, seedlings were established at Kabete in 1933 and subsequently widely distributed in areas east of Kenya's Rift Valley. Recent genetic tests have confirmed that SL14 is related to the Typica genetic group.

SL28 is one of Africa's most renowned and esteemed coffee varieties. Scott Laboratories originally selected it in the 1930s from a drought-resistant population in Tanganyika (now Tanzania). The initial tree caught attention due to its resistance to both drought and disease. SL28 was then developed through pedigree selection—a breeding method where ancestry records are meticulously maintained. In this process, selected parent plants are crossed, and their offspring are carefully segregated. Seeds from plants displaying desired traits are chosen and grown over several generations until the characteristics stabilize.

Initially widespread in Kenya, SL28 has since expanded to other African regions and even Latin America. Recent genetic studies have linked SL28 to the Bourbon genetic group. It's highly valued for its superb cup quality, especially when grown at high altitudes. While SL28 is drought-tolerant, it remains susceptible to major diseases. Remarkably, it's known for its resilience to minimal plantation management—even 60-year-old, neglected trees can remain highly productive.

The dry/natural process is the oldest and simplest method of preparing green coffee. Well-suited to environments with limited water access and hot climates, this process typically uses no water and requires no specialized equipment.

After harvesting, coffee cherries are dried until they reach about 20% moisture content. They're then usually rested for a few weeks in bags before being sent to a mill for hulling and export preparation.

The cherries can be dried on large patios or raised African beds—large trays with a mesh base that allow increased airflow for even drying. Best practices include keeping the drying coffee in shade during the hottest parts of the day and avoiding re-wetting by rain or condensation. Regular turning and good ventilation are also crucial to prevent mould formation.

To avoid defective seeds and sour fermentation off-flavours, it's best to sort the harvested cherries during the initial drying stage when under-ripe, over-ripe, and damaged cherries are easily spotted. After just a couple of days, the cherries turn a dark red-brown colour before becoming black, making it impossible to visually identify problem cherries.

Coffee begins fermenting from the moment it's picked and continues while there's enough moisture and high temperatures—conditions that favour microbial growth. This uncontrolled fermentation leads to the development of wild, fruity flavours and an increased perception of sweetness and body.