The washed process was developed to reduce the risk of the off-flavours that uncontrolled fermentation can cause when coffee dries inside the whole cherry. By removing the fruit first, producers gain more control over the final cup, which is why washed coffees are often described as clean, bright and transparent.
After harvest, cherries are sorted in flotation tanks, where underripe and defective fruit floats and is skimmed off. The remaining cherries are pulped, leaving the seeds covered in a sticky layer of mucilage. They then ferment in tanks, either dry or under water, until microbes have broken the mucilage down enough to wash off. Tank design, cleanliness, temperature and time all shape the result, and many producers now monitor fermentation closely as a quality step rather than just a cleaning one.
Once washed, the parchment coffee is dried slowly on raised beds or patios and turned regularly so it dries evenly. It then rests for several weeks before hulling and export.
Washing uses a lot of water, and the sugary wastewater can harm rivers if it isn't treated. Some operations use mechanical demucilagers, which scrub off the fruit with little water and skip fermentation altogether. That saves water, though some producers believe it costs flavour, since fermentation helps build aromatic compounds.
Washed processing is the norm in much of Central America, Colombia and Kenya, and produces many of Ethiopia's most celebrated floral coffees.